Glacier Mountain Summit--Peak of Disappointment!

Climbing trip to Glacier Mountain June 2013.  We didn't summit, a bit of a disappointment, but we did summit Disappointment!!

The crew, from L2R,Jacab Leonard aka Sprinkles, dbBrad aka Freestyle, Yessi Ye aka Llittle Sherpa,  Joe Green aka architect, and Jeffery Huntinton the third aka Mr. Roper.

For another great description and more terrific photos of this Glacier Peak Climb, please see Jeff Huntingtons post on PeakBagger.

dbBrad and Yessi Ye (Lil Sherpa) in the wetlands along the North Fork Sauk.  The skunk cabbage was gigantic.

The trip begins with a rendezvous at Jeff's new little cabin in a development called Cascade River Park, an unlikely little development of summer cabins with a very likely name.  His darling cabin is just up from the roaring cascade river perched on a hill in the forest.

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Yessi and I borrowed a truck, picked up Jacaboo at the airport fresh from SanFrancisco, made a quick trip to REI, then up to the cabin.  Joe and Jeff came from Lopez Island.  It was 7pm when we were all finally together.

At about 4k feet, lots of snow on the trail.  Ice axes were handy on the approach here since it was so steep.

We then proceeded with our pack dumps, stove comparisons (the MSR Reactor wins again!), research and mapped routes, new apps and our final gear selection.  Darkness consumed us and our tasks at around 10pm.

Sprinkles hanging out at base camp, back on the PCT!

Off to bed and early to rise, we headed out around 6:00 with a slightly 'soft' start.  The drive was a bit further than I thought, taking over an hour to get to the trail head.  We were hiking by 8, a little late but with plenty of time to hit the PCT at White Pass.

Yessi, Jeff and Joe at camp, clouds rolling in below us.

Camp was just off the PCT below White Pass.  It was fun for both Sprinkles and I since we walked past this very point last September while on the PCT fresh from Mexico.  In fact, there was a little stream just above us in a worn part of earth where the snow had melted and we think this was the PCT.

Jeff in the early morning light headed over the ridge towards Upchuck Glacier Basin.

Next morning was supposed to be a 5am hard start, but was more like a 5:45 soft start, but that was okay.  It was a beautiful morning, the snow was firm but no need for crampons and we headed over the ridge to the long traverse headed towards Whitechuck Glacier.

At just after 7am about 1.5 miles from base camp, the sun blesses us with it's warmth.  White Mountain behind.

We took a break after about 3 miles while Joe demonstrated Blue Bag techniques in the open basin that never seemed to end.

 

These footsteps go on for 7 miles--it's a long approach to Glacier from White Pass and the soft snow made it much more challenging.

Keep walking, keep walking, posthole, slip, trip, keep walking.  The going was tough and kept changing as we swithced from boots to snow shoes, to crampons and back again.  Walk, posthole, slip, posthole, keep walking!!

Joe followed by two others with Rainier visible in the distance.

The terrain was beautiful as was the weather, and we kept walking, slip, posthole....

Jeffery Huntington the third, aka Mr. Roper!

Jeffery Huntington the third, aka Mr. Roper

Finally we were at the base of Cool Glacier, roped up, crampons on and ready to do some real vertical.  Of minor interest were the crevasses along the way which appeared harmless and of no circumstance.  But when you bring Mr. Roper this far, you've just got to tie up and it is after all a glacier.

At the summit of Disappointment Peak, just 800ft shy of Glacier Peak peak, we called it a day due to weather and headed back down.  We made the right decision as the clouds kept dropping and we were able to stay under the whiteout conditions during our return to camp.

And I was glad we did.  Wanting to get a closer look, a glimpse into the icy blue abyss only glaciers can provide, I stepped perhaps a little farther over than I should have and broke through the snow up to my arm pits.  With feet dangling,  I was able to pull myself out, but was really glad Joe was watching me and taking up rope.

All packed up, headed back down the next day.
From L2R, Joe Green, Mr. Roper, Sprinkles and Lil Sherpa.

We kept heading up the glacier, optimistic that we were going to have the perfect day, though it was getting late.

This was Yessi's first time to walk on snow ever, and after all our snow travel this trip, Yessi was looking like a pro on the way down.

But as we climbed up to the saddle, we could see clouds in the valley getting thicker and clouds overhead getting lower, now touching nearby peaks.  We were being sandwiched by the clouds and we still had 800 vertical to get to the summit.

Joe helps Yessi up over a steep ledge.

It was now 3pm, we were all tired from the 7 mile approach and knew that the return would be even harder.  The sunshine was nice and made for beautiful views, but the snow was now super soft.

Yessi's company flag, TuTwo.图途

So we bagged  Glacier Peak and headed up a 400' slope to the summit of Disappointment Peak.  It was a disappointment, appropriately named, but still a successful day.

Crossing the river, almost back at the truck, we paused for a quick group photo at a nice new log bridge.  Thanks to the US Forest Service for building it and to Yessi Ye for taking the photo.

And we headed back to camp, 7 miles in soft snow, sometimes  postholing up to our knees, occasionally to the crotch. We finally arrived back at base camp, exhausted.  Sprinkles and I both agreed we'd rather do a 30 miler on the PCT in the high Sierras, without food, in the rain, than to relive our 14 mile day to Glacier and back.

Back at the trucks after a great trip.

But looking at these pictures, it's an amazing place, an amazing approach to a glaciated volcano and I'm ready to do it again, but to the top!!