Okay, so the Greenstone Track is supposed to be nice. But to get to the track head from Queenstown is a hassle. The ferry that crosses the lake doesn't stop where the trail head is.
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| One of the first stops along the Routeburn Trail, Te Araroa freestytle! |
At DoC I was able to get the name of the three primary landowners on the other side of the lake to get permission to sidle across their property to the trail head but that would add a day I didn't have. I had a reservation in just 5 days.
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| A ranger describes a side hike to Pauline and I. |
The reservation is for what may well be the highlight and best value ever on my New Zealand trip, a 24 hour overnight cruise including transportation (an hour ferry ride followed by an hour bus ride) in Doubtful sound.
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| Camping up along the Northfork of the Routeburn |
Back to solving the dilemma of restarting the Te Araroa trail south of the lake at Queenstown, one can either hitch all day and probably get there but may end up walking half a day on a gravel road to get to the trail head.
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| dbBrad on Te Araroa Freestyle route, Routeburn bypass! |
There one hikes the Greenstone track for two days to lake Mavaora and then it's Mararoa river track which is mostly 47k on a dirt road. Or catch a bus for 50 bucks around the lake to the end of the road.
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| South Island, New Zealand, Routeburn North Fork |
The bus takes you right by, in fact stops at the trail head, for another hike called the Routeburn track. In a part of New Zealand originally settled by Irish, many of the streams are called
burns.
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| The Routeburn track is right next to the Alps and fairly high where it's a bit chilly early in the morning. |
Lots of people hike the Routeburn but, unlike some of the great walks, there are camping opportunities in select areas along the Routeburn.
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| Routeburn Track, New Zealand |
So I deviated from the Te Araroa Trail to hike the Routeburn. From there I was going to hike the entire length of the Greenstone Track and return on the Caples Track making a giant loop to Cascade Saddle where I knew I could catch a bus or hitch easily to meet the Doubtful sound cruise
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| Two hikers, Elisa and Kate, along the Routeburn trail. |
But the Routeburn was so lovely and had nice little side trips and the people I met were so great I drew it out into 3 days of the most amazing and leisurely hiking I've done yet.
After 4 months of hiking routes where there is no trail and there are no people, the Routeburn was a treat. The trail was as easy to walk as anything I've hiked while allowing me to enjoy the amazing scenery and to have some great conversations.
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| Elisa and Kate, Routeburn trail |
While many of the people on this 'great walk' have guides and meals provided, there are also many looking for a safe adventure into the New Zealand Alps. And then there are a few seasoned hikers like myself crashing the party!!
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| dbBrad off the Te Araroa Trail! |
It was the first time in my 2300km hiked so far where I was going the same way with so many great people, all of whom I would speak with as I meandered slowly along this amazing trail.
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| Kate and Pauline at split rock. |
Even though I still put in 6 hours of tramping a day, it was like a vacation from my Te Araroa tramp where time and distance are always nagging in the background. Here, I just followed the person in front of me, looked at the scenery and day dreamed about future design projects.
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| One tall waterfall. |
Not doing the big loop and being more interested in some of the people than the trail, I ended up on the Milford Te Anau Road a day and a half early.
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| dbBrad on Key Summit along the Routeburn trail, a Te Araroa detour! |
Somewhere, some one looked at my map and showed me a little tiny track just north on the road with a hut and a nice day hike. So I went there. Unbelieveable--go to next posting!!
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