Gulangye Island

Today, Yessi and I visited Gulangye Island.  Gulangyu Island is renowned for its delicate natural beauty, its ancient relics, and its varied architecture. The island is on China's list of National Scenic Spots and also ranks at the top of the list of the ten most-scenic areas in Fujian Province.  Close to Xieman, Gulangye has a population of 20,000 people, while the city itself has a population of  3.61 million people.

From Yessi's home it was a 10 minute walk to an elevated busway (China Bus Rapid Transit) to get to the Gulangye Island ferry.  The 10 minute ride to the ferry cost 2 yuan or 32 cents.  

The view of Xiamen from the elevated busway

Gulangye Island is a popular tourist island.  The ferry, a 7 minute ride, is the only way to access Gulangye Island.  It is free on the outward journey.  On the way back it costs 8 yuan or $1.29.  

Passangers wait for island ferry

Looking back at Xiamen from Gulangyu Island

Looking back to Xiamen from Gulangye Island

Another scene looking back at Xiamen from Gulangye Island

This car-free island is a hot spot for weddings.  On this off season, mid week day that Yessi and I visited we saw 3 wedding parties.  According to one source, Gulangyu Island is being developed as a "Honeymoon Island" and honeymoon-themed activities have been launched.  To protect the island from over development, it is waiting for World Cultural Heritage status.  

Charming Walkways on Gulangyu Island

On our visit to Gulangyu Island today we enjoyed a unique "traffic-free island". It is connected to the main island of Xiamen only by ferry.  Neither cars nor bicycles are allowed and the only vehicles on the island are several fire trucks plus the newly introduced electric tourist buggies.  Watch out for the  electric tourist buggies.  They drive like race cars!  Freight is pulled on wheeled buggies up the often steep lanes by strong teams of men.

Fabulous walking through lovely architecture.

Brad & Yessi

My Wonderful Hosts

Knowing Yessi, spending time with her family, and experiencing China as I would experience it if I lived here, has been enriching and memorable.  I'm so grateful for this opportunity to get to know this wonderful family and to be a part of their daily lives.  

Yessi and mother prepare meals 3 times a day!!  

Every morning they all work together to get the two girls taken care of.  China still strongly encourages only one child.  As a result the second baby was born in Hong Kong at a cost of 250,000 yuan or $32,000 usd.  Since born in HK she has a HK passport which is more versatile and less restrictive.

Yessi; Fang Fang, Yessi's sister-in-law; Celin, Yessi's niece on Dan Feng, Yessi's mother's back; Ye Biao, Yessi's brother; and Yessi's cutie pie niece, Elin

Celine, calls me nothing but happily drools all over my arm.  Perhaps cuter than a button!

Elin, she calls me uncle and she's cute as a button!

On Transportation

In China there are many new and big foreign luxury cars like Lexis, BMW and Porsche Cayanes everywhere you look. The rest of the vehicle are well used trucks, buses of all sizes, a multitude of motorcycles, and bicycles, most of which are electric and look like they should have stopped working ten years ago. Batteries are held on with wire; baskets and racks are welded to gas tanks, handle bars or whatever; bamboo armatures are taped on holding umbrellas and tarps; wheels that are far from round and often at funny angles, wobble as they ride down the middle of the road.  And, not a single light on any of them.

Xiamen traffic jam

At night they are more like invisible ghosts but still in the middle of the road and often going the wrong direction.  You couldn't pay me to get on one of these things, let alone ride it in the middle of the road, often on the wrong side of the road, and without lights.

Going the wrong way

Driving here is unbelievable.  How there aren't more accidents I truly don't understand.   So far as I can tell, there appear to be no rules or traffic laws but neither are there police or traffic accidents.  It's as if the vehicles on the road are ants -- part of a hive mind.

Yes, there are accidents

There seems to be a hidden code where cars turn in front of others.  Right of way is not a given and all vehicles have equal right of way.

You want to do a U turn.  Just do it!

Pedestrians cross as needed.  Bicycles and even cars are regularly on the wrong side of the road as if the lines and lights were suggestions.  Need supersedes 'intended use'.  So, what is easiest or fastest or makes the most sense becomes the "right" thing to do.  This allows open areas, free lanes, and any unused spaces to be used as needed.  If there are no cars  moving, people will simply park their car, even on intersection corners or the wrong side of street.  Likewise they drive on sidewalks, plazas and alleys one wouldn't initially think were suitable for any vehicle.

Street scene in Xiamen

The result -- less wasted space, more efficient travel, perhaps planning is even simplified requiring less thought for intended use but instead creating the "zones" that allow people to use them how they want.  Kind of like my philosophy for architecture.  That is, create wonderful spaces that lend themselves to multiple use and the varied needs of users.

Gas here is 2.70 yuan/liter or 4.50 per gallon.  But, with all the alternative transportation options, including a fabulous rapid bus transit system where buses run on dedicated streets, through tunnels, and on elevated roadways, one can easily avoid driving if desired.  

In a city of 3.61 million people, all forms of transportation mix it up in a fascinating move-the-people-dance. 

Tree on a Step Pedestal

The most perfect tree since NZ

Brad and the Perfect Tree

Uncle Brad

Yessi's Niece, cuter than a bug!

Calls me uncle  and seems to have a bit of an infatuation with me

Child Care

Many children are left sitting, and sometimes tethered, while their only parent works.  

In this case grandpa was sorting garbage for recyclables 150' away.

Brad tethered to keep him out of trouble!!